Meet Brazilian Embroidery: Common Mistakes

Note: I am a hobbyist who loves arts and crafts! I wrote this post as a brief intro for fellow novices - if you’re intrigued, I encourage you to dig deeper! My sources are listed here to help you get started.


Like so much of the embroidery world, Brazilian embroidery subscribes to the “happy little accident” school of thought. A wayward stitch or a crooked twist can easily be fudged or manipulated to look cool, or at least intentional. And since the subject is usually floral, who’s to say that it wasn’t supposed to look like that in the first place?!

So when enthusiasts tout Brazilian embroidery as beginner-friendly, they’re not just blowing smoke. The dimensional techniques can take some getting used to, but even the most newbie novice (i.e. yours truly) can cook up a passably spiffy piece in his or her first go-round.

Having said that, there are certainly ways to make the adventure more enjoyable. See if you can dodge the following blunders that have caught unsuspecting embroiderers flat-footed:

  1. USING UNWASHED FABRIC
    Make sure you’re working on pre-shrunk fabric. Otherwise, prepare for pucker!

  2. NOT USING A HOOP OR STRETCHER BAR
    Embroiderers through the ages have made do with stretcher-free stitchery (say THAT 3 times fast!), but if you have access to the tools, use them! You’ll save yourself from uneven thread tension and dimpled fabric.

  3. “JUMPING” THREADS
    Dark threads can cast a “shadow” on lighter/brighter fabrics, if you jump from one spot to another on the back. It’s better to start and finish at each section, or run the thread behind filled areas.

  4. USING THE WRONG THREAD
    There’s a reason Brazilian embroidery originator, Madame Maia, selected high sheen rayon. It slides beautifully against itself to allow easy dimensional stitch creation. Steer clear of sticky cottons and wools that will catch on themselves and cause mischief.

  5. NOT BUYING ENOUGH THREAD
    Since many quality rayons are hand dyed in small batches, you’re sunk if you need to match something you ran out of. Better to have too much than too little.

  6. TRUSTING THE “COLORFAST” LABEL
    Rayon is notorious for rebelling against its supposed “colorfast” nature. Word on the street is blues and reds are the worst offenders. If you have a bleed during blocking or washing, just keep rinsing until the water runs clear.

  7. UNDERESTIMATING SLIPPAGE
    The high thread sheen creates a slippery fiber that likes to Houdini its way out of knots. Opt for Waste or Away Knots to start or finish your thread more securely.

  8. LEAVING “WARTS”
    High sheen shows all. If you make a wart in the middle of your art, take the time to do it over. Otherwise, it WILL catch the light, and it WILL be the only thing you see when you display your finished piece!

  9. USING KINKY THREAD
    Kit threads, especially, pick up sharp creases during packing and transport. Left alone, these bends can pop up in the worst possible places in your embroidery. Before you start, run kinky threads over a damp sponge and allow them to dry completely, either hanging or on a flat surface. Store unused thread in plastic to keep it clean and organized.

  10. WORKING YOUR STITCHES BACKWARDS
    When the instructions say clockwise, they mean it. Hearkening back to a previous post, Brazilian embroidery’s Z-twist rayon wants to unravel and separate, when you continuously work your stitches counter-clockwise. Generally speaking, working clockwise and stitching left to right will keep your thread orderly. HOWEVER, don’t be afraid to experiment to create different textures and looks!

  11. MISDIRECTING THE NEEDLE
    Milliners needles are sharp. Double check that you’re not coming up through the middle of a thread; it can pull, tear, look messy or, worse yet, undo your hard work on a stitch you had already made beautiful.

  12. MUSCLING UP
    Your embroidery is not a corset - do NOT over-pull your stitch work. Muscling cast-ons puts you in serious danger of not being able to draw your needle through the center. And over-snugging detached buttonhole stitches makes it a bear to find where to put the needle next. Hoop or not, mistaking yourself for Hercules can turn your fabric into a puckered wasteland.

  13. FORCING A STITCH
    If the thread ain’t moving, stop yanking. Seriously. Stop it. Figure out where the hang up is - knotted thread, caught on thread/fabric fibers, or stitched to your pants. Unthread your needle, work it out, and start fresh. You will thank me for this advice.

Want video stitch tutorials? You’ll find outstanding dimensional embroidery guidance (and soothing music) on Malina GM Embroidery’s YouTube Channel. She saved me many a misstitch - thanks, Malina ♥

If you have any additional words of embroidery wisdom, I’d love to read them in the comments below!

My next post is chock full of online resources for the budding Brazilian embroiderer - read on!

Note: I have no affiliation with, and am not receiving compensation from, any of the above websites. These are my personal recommendations.